In 2015 I did the 4,200 km Transcontinental Race from near Brussels to Istanbul. Since that wasn’t quite long enough I also did a warm up by riding 2,800 km from Istanbul to the start line. Great holiday, but there was one unintended consequence: by the time I got to Greece (6,000+ km) my hands had stopped working. When I had to pay for something I’d hold out the money in my palm and apologetically ask people to take the money. I recovered quickly after the race, but decided that I’d upgrade my bike to Di2 with electronic shifting.
It was a great idea, but as anyone who is a reader of this blog knows, I’m never satisfied and I decided that I needed to modify the Di2 to put in shifting buttons both on my aero bars but also under the handlebars. This would give me three different options for shifting depending on where my hands were. This is a geeky post to show how it is done. Not only is it a lot less expensive than the $200+ for Shimano’s offering of bar end shifters, or $100 for a bulky ‘climbing’ shifter (parts cost me $40), but it’s a much tidier solution as well (especially compared to the climbing switch).
“If you do well you should plan average about 12 km/h for the ride”. Marcus said just before we cycled to the Czech border with Germany to start line for the 1,240 km 2016 Grenzsteintrophy ride. He also told me that to date no woman had to date completed the Grenzsteintrophy (GST). This was going to be an adventure!
Following on from my earlier post on powering your gadgets for endurance racing, I decided to do a series of parallel tests with the dynamos and USB power units that I had accumulated. This included three dynamos (SON, Shutter Precision and Velogical) and six different USB power units (B&M Luxos U, Biologic Reecharge, Cycle2Charge, PedalPower Universal Cable, Supernova Plug III, and the ZZing). Interesting results …
Updated 19/4 to include Sinewave equipment
Most people who do long-distance bicycle endurance racing are somewhat obsessive/compulsive about their gear. That’s putting it kindly. I’m definitely no exception and my blog is littered with posts on the most esoteric aspects of bike setup, equipment etc.
Providing power to your gadgets (GPS, lights, phone, trackers, etc.) during races is an area we spend a lot of time on, and has provided endless hours of entertainment and frustration over the years. Since my first attempt at the Tour Divide in 2011, I’ve refined my approach—and there have also been sea changes in technologies—so I thought it was timely to put down my journey to hopefully assist others in finding the best solution for their needs, be it endurance racing or just touring.
If you don’t want to read further, here is the 30 second elevator pitch:
- If all you want to do is to have power for your GPS or phone, don’t bother with dynamos etc. Get a couple of small 5000+ mAh power banks and use these. I’ve run my Garmin 1000 for almost 40 h on one of these—before it had to use the internal battery.
- If you are going to be running multiple gadgets and doing night riding get a dynamo and headlight
- The SON 28 is the best dynamo—but expensive.
- The Luxos U is great for road riding—particularly because it has the integrated USB converter and a cache battery. Plug and play. Only challenge can be getting it mounted …
- For mountain bike riding the Luxos is probably too fragile so better getting a K-Lite, Exposure, Supernova or similar.
- If your light has a USB output (like the Luxos U):
- Get a Goal Zero recharger with Eneloop 2550 mAh AA batteries and which passes through while charging. You will be able to power your devices when the dynamo can’t and have 4 x AA batteries as well if you need them.
- If your light does not have USB output:
- Get the ZZing or Reecharge Powerpack which will convert the dynamo power to USB, and have integrated cache batteries. Alternatively, get the PedalPower Universal Cable and the Goal Zero recharger. The latter is best if you have extra devices which run on AA or AAA batteries.
I’ve bought most of my gear from Peter White cycles in the USA. His site has excellent information on dynamos and a wide selection of gear.
- Updated 11/3: Additional details including run times for battery packs
- Updated 27/2: Included Reecharge PowerPack
- Updated 17/2: Included ZZing
When I go for my long open water swims, I have two concerns (and drowning isn’t one of them!):
- Will the boaties—particularly those towing water skiers—see me (a black wet suit with a white/yellow cap isn’t that visible); and,
- What do I do with my car keys?
Enter the ‘Real Swim Bag’ which solves both problems. This is one of those inventions which is so obvious I don’t know why they aren’t common place.
It is a dry bag which contains two bladders. You inflate the bladders and it floats like a buoy. There is a small belt that goes around your waist. It is completely unobtrusive and you don’t notice it when you are swimming. My wife Lis advised that it was very visible from the beach—especially as it was moving (slowly) across the water.
The are only $NZ 50 (about US$35) from www.realswimadventures.com. I can’t recommend it highly enough. If you do any open water swimming get one. You won’t regret it.
A short post on powering your Garmin 1000 from the dynamo while riding. Often, the micro-USB power cable works loose losing power. Here’s my solution.
The first step is to get a right angle micro USB cable like this:http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321370444583
Then use the rubber ‘bands’ that come with your Garmin and loop one of them around the GPS and the flat side of the micro-usb cable. I have one of those silicon covers for my Edge 1000 which serves to hold the cable in place. If it slips put a bit of tape on the top side.
This arrangement makes the cable really firm in place and yet easy to remove when you want to pop your Garmin off to go shopping.
Postscript: Worked great for a few rides but I’ve done one modification. I used a file to put a groove into the back of the plug which serves to hold the rubber band in place firmly.
The Magnic bicycle light (www.magniclight.com) is an amazing contactless dynamo light. It generates light through its proximity to a moving wheel. I supported it through the inventor’s Kickstarter campaign, and as part of this received a pair of front lights and a rear light suitable for my road bike. I was particularly attracted to the fact that with the Magnic one does not need to have a wheel built around a dynamo hub, or by being contactless it avoids the noise issue with rim dynamos. What follows is my assessment of the Magnic light, in particular its suitability for long-distance endurance riding.